Postby Kathryn-in-Canada » Thu Feb 16, 2012 12:12 pm
Here's my Wednesday Travelogue:
The saying is "time flies when you are having fun." Wednesday morning this was especially true. One moment it was 9:30 and then, suddenly after an announcement by the cruise director, it was 10:30!
A misunderstanding about time had the ship's time jumping ahead from 9:30 to 10:30 after the clocks had been set back the night before.
For us, life was good, since our alarm clock was the only clock of ours we missed setting the night before so we got out of bed at 7:15 instead of the planned 8:15 and were already an hour ahead for the day, having got up, dressed, eaten and even done my devotions before the announcement. But the kitchen was thrown into confusion, since breakfast ran until 10 and lunch was to start at 11:30 but suddenly 11:30 was only one hour away and breakfast was supposed to be over!
Normally, everyone would just laugh this off, but the tours were all 4+ hours long and were leaving at 12:50 so suddenly we had an hour less to listen to the lecture, eat, clear immigration and get out onto the pier. The pool grill managed to get themselves up and running the fastest so I grabbed a bite from them, then rushed to get off the ship on time. We managed just fine and even scored front row seats on the tour bus (all the people with canes went to the back so we moved up to the front as soon as the door was closed.)
Here are my observations from Walvis Bay, Namibia:
- It is a major West African port. Because the countries here have lower populations (Namibia only has 2.1 million people) most goods are shipped in rather than manufactured here. Along the docks are huge slabs of marble and granite being shipped from there to Europe. And piles of salt.
- The desert really does come to the sea here. The two towns we visited, Walvis Bay and Swakopmund, are both surrounded by desert. One moment, you are looking at housing, the next moment, it is sand as far as the eye can see.
- The Namib desert is the oldest in the world. The dunes here are only 5 million years old, farther south they are dated to 80 – 90 million years old. We explored parts of the Dorob National Park during our times in the desert.
- Our first stop of the day was at Dune 7. This dune is about 280m high. Ken felt the need to climb it but we only had 10 minutes so he could only go up for 5 minutes!
- The roads are amazing and the speed limits high. Most are made out of salt and sand mixed together, wet down and rolled.
- Swakopmund is a German town about 33 km north of Walvis Bay, and, according to the ship's lecturer is the most bizarre town in Africa. It was a mix of German and West African architecture and culture. We visited a museum, a crystal museum/shop, and then had 45 minutes of free time to wander around.
I chose to go to the grocery store. Prices/selection were comparable to home (sugar $2 for 2kg, milk $1.50 per litre), but a labourer in the area only earns $100 per month, so obviously the grocery store I was in was geared for ex-pats and tourists. On the way into the store, a woman with an African Grey parrot perched on her shoulder was leaving with her shopping done.
- Namibia feels safe and is safe compared to other African countries. The high walls around homes I saw were to keep the desert out, not intruders. And I headed off on my own when we had the free time, rather than sticking with Ken.
Of course, I was in a very prosperous and isolated area. The population is about 44,000 for each of the towns. The area is surrounded by uranium and semi-precious stone mining, movies are shot here all the time (Mad Max 4 is being filmed here now) and tourism offers a lot of employment. Unemployment runs about 31% nation-wide but that also includes subsistence farmers, so not everyone of those unemployed are in desperate straights.
Like Zimbabwe, farm reclamation has been going on, reducing production by 80% as the whites have turned the farming over to the blacks. As a result, the project is on hold while the government figures out a better way to complete the process.
Our drivers both days felt that there wasn't as much racial tension here as South Africa. Of course, they were both white.
- Namibia was a state of South Africa up until the 90s and apartheid was put in place here. The townships still exist (the first picture is of the coloureds' township, the blacks' township was on the other side of the highway.) The population, according to our driver, is roughly 6.5% white, 6% coloured and 87.5% black. While the townships are no longer segregated (nor is the town), races tend to remain segregated if only by economics as oppose to law.
- School is mandatory but not free, costing $600 per year for public school, $1500 for private school. Remember, a labourer can expect to earn $1200 per year. Obviously, not all children attend school, as a result.
- I had heard about walking in Africa and witnessed it both days, long streams of people walking along the road or across the open areas in order to get to work or school. Neither town was big enough for a bus service so one either walks into town or takes a taxi (which many opt to do) or grabs a ride from whatever is available.
- Palm trees line a lot of the roads. They are not indigenous to this area but survive well. One particular one is known for it's fibre and cellular construction and is not natural at all.
They disguise the cell phone towers as palm trees!
- Our drive back to Walvis Bay took us down the coast. Half-way between the two towns is the enclave of very nice houses known as Long Beach. That's where Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt stayed for months while waiting to give birth.
Our tour lasted from 1 p.m. until just after 6. We were exhausted and spent a quiet evening in our cabin.
Ken had been sick the night before and so had fasted all day. He started eating again, gingerly at first, with some consomme and then we moved on to a full room service meal.
Our cabin is down the hall from the dining room so we left our door open and listened to the school band playing music to welcome the diners. The money they received for their performance will go to school fees.
The evening show was an international award-winning Mascato Youth Choir, a Township School choir. We stayed for 6 pieces but had to head to bed early. Their music was delightful and the theatre was completely full – standing room only. We bought their CD as a souvenir of Namibia.
As I write this, all this happened yesterday... there is still today's adventure in the desert to tell you about that will come in another post. We are at sea now for 4.5 days and I'm looking forward to the rest!