Postby Kathryn-in-Canada » Sun Feb 26, 2012 2:19 pm
Harmony: I actually saw a woman washing laundry on a scrub board yesterday. Funny you should mention that.
As for enforced cleaning... we saw very little of that except in the market where they were emptying out the drainage system. Since it didn't smell, it wasn't septic but it was a black, gooey, fibrous mess that was dug out of big storage tanks along the paths between the stalls.
But in general, it was more of an enforced Sabbath. And given the country is 90% Muslim, I wondered if that was part of the purpose. This is a dictatorship so perhaps the president just wanted to sleep in one day per month!
Here's my travelogue for yesterday:
We had quite a day in Banjul, the capital of The Gambia.
Once a month, a 'cleaning day' is declared and nothing is open until after 1 p.m. on a Saturday. So, we arrived in port at 8 a.m. but were told nothing would be available. This didn't sound quite right to me so I checked with one of the lecturers from South Africa. He said he had never heard of this but being Africa, he said such surprises were to be expected. We ended up heading out with both lecturers so had people experienced with Africa with us.
We took the shuttle bus to the market area which was deserted. The streets were deserted. The shops were shuttered. Few people were about. It was very surreal. We literally walked down the middle of the streets.
On the shuttle bus on the way in, I had seen a sign I wanted a photo of, so we walked back to it. It said, Behind Every Great Man is a Great Women. Turns out this is over the entrance to the State House where the President lives. It is a tribute to his wife. Which wife, I'm not sure (he has two.)
We chatted with the guards in front, young men in fatigues with guns. English is the language of the country and they were a delight to chat with, if one could ignore the guns. They were 19 – 23 years old, two were twin brothers.
From there we decided to walk down to the Arch 22 and the Statue of the Unknown Soldier. A plaque in front says the following about Arch 22: “To the present and succeeding generations is bequeathed this monumental structure commemorating the bloodless revolutionary of the administration of the Republic of The Gambia. It symbolises the strength of the Nation's faith in Allah, our high hopes in the future and strong will to develop the Motherland finally liberated by heroic and patriotic officers and soldiers of The Gambia National Army, on the 22 day of July, 1994 under the leadership of Captain Yahya AJJ Jameh, chairman of the Armed Forces Provisional Ruling Council to be governed henceforth according to the new national vision of self reliance, accountability, transparency, and probity, based human rights and social justice.” Yeah, right.
Along our walk to the Arch, we kept attracting 'guides' who just wanted to chat with us. This was where having experienced African guides helped since they told us ignoring these people was the best way to deal with them. This would bring on claims of racism from the guides “we are the same under our different coloured skin” but there is obviously a culture gap here – us wanting to explore on our own without harassment after exchanging pleasantries, and the guides pushing and pushing to gain our attention.
We ducked into the National Museum for a moment in order to lose a couple of the more pushy ones but decided not to stay at the museum for any length of time.
After leaving the Arch, we walked onto the beach. At the entrance, off to one side, were a group of children playing.
One had a mask made out of grasses and horns from some animal. Another had a makeshift drum made from wood. The children came up to us and the masked one danced as the others sang and beat out the rhythm on the drum or just hitting two sticks together. One boy had two hinged pieces of wood that he'd clap together. One child would sing out the line and the others would echo. It was very interesting. Unlike some of the later people from the ship, we 1) didn't feel threatened and 2) got away with a simple thank you. We must have been their warm-up session.
Also on the beach was the unusual spectacle of the goats being led, on their hind legs, down to the ocean to be washed.
We walked along the beach, the enjoyment partly disturbed by the men encouraging us to come to their juice bars.
Eventually we walked back down to the beach side of the State House. Huge walls surrounded it, with guns installed at the top. By then we pretty well realized that taking pictures was a bloody poor idea (the guards earlier had told me no pictures were allowed and it was quite obvious we were in a police state.) On the other hand, we were struck by the line of vultures on the wall. One of the others made sure to take a picture of my dh and I on the beach, with him standing on tippy-toe with his camera angled high!
The symbolism of the vultures in the palace, standing, posed to scavenge all they could from the poor of Africa was amazing.
At this point, a young guide had been walking with us but not hassling us. The beach ended here (actually it hadn't quite ended but because it was high tide we couldn't get by a building) so we had to head through an alley into the back of the market. Our map didn't have the details of the alleys that made up the market so we actually had to use the guide at this point.
As he led us back to the street, others came towards us, saying something in the native tongue and our guide turned us around and said that the gate was locked, so we'd have to go another way. At that point we plunged into the warren of aisles that made up the maze of the market. Nothing was open except the underground tanks that store the runoff from the market. Black gunk was being dug out these and carried by wheel barrow to the street. At one point our path was blocked by an open tank lid so our guide asked permission to take us through a stall. Even so, there was some careful stepping to be done.
At this point, we were at the mercy of our guide and all those mystery or crime novels set in the Middle East was setting off warning bells but there was nothing to be done but to press forward. All was well and we were safely delivered out onto the street at the exact spot where the shuttle bus would take us back to the ship. It was 10 minutes until the next shuttle so we discussed whether to wait or walk and just as we made up our minds to walk, the minibus pulled up and we gratefully climbed into the air conditioning to wait until it was time for it to leave. The passengers he dropped off were quickly back to the bus, having no interest in exploring further and we were quickly taken back to the ship.
After a rest and lunch, we headed back out, this time intending to only stay for a few minutes and perhaps snap a few shots of the market.
As we entered the market, one of the guides who had been with us as we walked through the market in the morning spotted me and said “you came back!” then asked where the other two were. On our own now we figured out that life would be easier if we had a guide to shoo away the other 'vultures.'
Lallos, the guide, took us through the market, showing me roots that they grind to make a paste to protect against malaria biting mosquitos, bluing for washing, starch that they dissolve in water to make ironing easier and different kinds of produce being offered for sale.
He then seemed to be required to take us through the souvenir section. I did stop at a stall that belonged to his 'aunt' and bought a batik that best captured what was, for me, the most striking image of West Africa (a women with a load on her head and child on her back.)
After leaving the market by a back entrance, he took us down an alley to the fisherman's beach. He pointed out how it was not as clean as the tourist beach, would hold down the lines that tied boats to the shore so I could walk along unimpeded and told us of the fishing industry, how long it takes to build boats, and then took us to where the fish was smoked.
Lallos reminded us a lot of ds and we thought he was in his 20s. Turns out he's turning 40 this year. He showed us his driving licensed when we didn't believe him!
He took us further through the town, into residential areas. Unlike 'neighbourhoods' (as Lallos called them – and which he's seen on television) people live in compounds. Extended families live together in these. We passed one open door and inside I saw lovely mosaic tiles in the courtyard so I suspect they aren't as bleak on the inside as they look on the outside. We saw one multi-storey building that would be for a man with several wives but all living in the building would be closely related. We also spotted a water reservoir. Running water is available but for most people that means a tap with water at some point in the compound, not to taps within the houses.
FYI, although there was an open drainage ditch, it didn't smell. In fact, while there were places that did smell slightly, on the whole, there was no major smell. It was very dusty though and our throats were dry and my eyes stung. It was very, very, hot, mid 30s or higher and the sun was very hot.
Lallos took us to a rice seller who explained that we should buy a bag of rice – paying him in rice would ensure that Lallos' child (he was not married and the sex of his child kept changing) would benefit from our generosity in tipping Lallos. We did tip him the full amount, justifying it in our minds because we had seen all we wanted to see and spent less than third of what a tour arranged by the ship would cost.
The walk back to the ship was less pleasant because we no longer had Lallos to shoo away the guides but we could have ended the tour at the market. It was us who wanted to walk back to the ship.
For hours after returning to the ship, our bodies were vibrating from the stimulation of the day. We got back to our luxury oasis, showered and then I did a load of laundry. My bra was wetter when I took it off my body than it was when it came out of the washer!
Tea time helped bring us back to life a little. Our pre-dinner snack helped as well but we were still exhausted so decided to just order in hot dogs, fries, and ice cream for dinner and watched a movie. We left port late because of slow bunkering (refueling) but I ran up onto deck to watch us leave and get a sense of how far we had walked. Over the full day we did well over 7 km.
I really enjoyed my time in Gambia. The part I saw could not be considered a tourist destination but it was a good introduction to a totalitarian regime (although the president keeps 'winning' his elections) and I'm pleased we ended up there and not in Dakar.